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11/30/2008 01:56:31 PM · #1 |
Why should i use...
RAW
White Balance
ISO
I very rarely if ever use any of them...
RAW
Ino it gives you more control in postprossesing, but i don't feel limited now.
White Balance
I don't have problems with the job automatic does?
ISO
Havn't shot much low light, but how much help would this be? as apposed to changeing the Shutter speed or appeture?
Message edited by author 2008-11-30 18:56:44. |
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11/30/2008 02:24:13 PM · #2 |
ISO
Say you only shoot at your default ISO 100. When your lens is wide open (lowest possible aperture value) and the shutter speed is set, conservatively, at 1/640 to freeze a soaring (slow-flying) bird and the camera reduces that speed (coz it's just too dark), you'll get an unsharp fuzz of an image. If you shoot on Manual, the image comes out underexposed.
White Balance
Auto may suit your intent. Many of us shoot on "Sunny" instead (another warmer auto-mode) and prefer that as a default setting. When you get into artificial light though, the going gets tough, and, if you shoot a series, you'll want a custom white balance to reflect your sense of tone/temparature.
Mind you, much can be done with white balance in post-processing. Again, here it helps to shoot RAW, so you can explore the whole gamut as opposed to only a part of it.
RAW
If you shoot exclusively for the web, email or small print, you may feel adequately equipped with jpg. Once you start to discriminate, either with what you want to do with the details, tones or colours of your image in PS without having to combat artifacts or other limits or, if you want to print a little larger and enjoy the details, you'll go RAW.
RAW=dynamic range. It's like a Ferrari. If you just want transportation to get to the corner store, it's bad wheels.
Message edited by author 2008-11-30 19:27:17. |
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11/30/2008 02:38:47 PM · #3 |
You should actively adjust your ISO because Auto-ISO might decide to bump up your ISO in broad daylight because it thinks you want to really "capture an action", so it might boost up to 800 when you really needed only 100. You'll get unwanted grain and perhaps some quality loss. If you need a faster shutter speed, boosting the ISO is something you would have to do. Unless you have some external flashes. ISO is the sensors sensitivity to light, different than the Aperture/Shutter Speed where those control the amount of light hitting the sensor. With a higher ISO, you'll be able to keep your shutter open for a less amount of time while getting the same amount of light/information you would have gotten by increasing your shutter speed.
White Balance. I remember someone did a great post on why it is important to not use Auto White Balance, and for some reason MattO comes to mind, but I'm not entirely sure if it was him. As zeuszen stated, AWB might do the job fine, and with today's new cameras, AWB has been more precise than it used to be. But still, using the Preset white balances and/or custom white balances will give you much more accurate and natural colors than you would get with AWB.
RAW. This might not seem that important, but RAW can really be a photo-saver. Say you just captured a great moment, but you accidentally shot +2 exposure compensation, so almost everything has been overexposed... With Jpeg, you might be able to recover some lost areas, but there is a chance that you will lose a lot of quality. With RAW, you will more than likely be able to recover more information without losing significant detail. Mind you, this isn't always true. But it's safer to shoot RAW if you can. That's what I would recommend, and a lot of others as well.
Message edited by author 2008-11-30 19:41:16. |
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