poor photo paper quality - DPChallenge Forums

03/24/2004 12:27:38 PM · #1

I am having trouble with my photo paper. I've tried many brands, and seem to have the same issues. The print seems tacky, and will stick to the glass in a frame. I've tried satin finish, and this one seems to work better than any other - especially high gloss, but still poor results. Any ideas?

BTW - i have the Epson Stylus Photo 825

RHoldenSr

Canon EF 70-200mm f/4.0L USM

03/24/2004 12:29:42 PM · #2

You should not put a photo to glass. You should use a matte.

You can try buying some spray fixative it is a clear sealer and protector.

Originally posted by sonyp72:

Message edited by author 2004-03-24 17:30:11.

jmsetzler

Sony Alpha a6000

Sony 16-50mm f/3.5-5.6 E-mount

03/24/2004 12:29:54 PM · #3

If you use epson inks and epson papers, you shouldn't have any trouble. When you make a print, it's a good idea to let it 'cure' for a while before you put it in the frame also.

03/24/2004 12:32:44 PM · #4

i was wondering if there was a spray out there. Thanks for the idea.

Originally posted by Calvus:

You should not put a photo to glass. You should use a matte.

You can try buying some spray fixative it is a clear sealer and protector.

Originally posted by sonyp72:
I am having trouble with my photo paper. I've tried many brands, and seem to have the same issues. The print seems tacky, and will stick to the glass in a frame. I've tried satin finish, and this one seems to work better than any other - especially high gloss, but still poor results. Any ideas?

BTW - i have the Epson Stylus Photo 825

RHoldenSr

Canon EF 70-200mm f/4.0L USM

03/24/2004 12:32:56 PM · #5

I learned my lesson the hard way:

This photograph had water splashed on it and it dried. When I tried to remove it, the photo was stuck to the glass and it required a lot of PS work.

faidoi

Pentax K10D

Pentax DA 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 AF

03/24/2004 12:34:35 PM · #6

Originally posted by jmsetzler:

If you use epson inks and epson papers, you shouldn't have any trouble. When you make a print, it's a good idea to let it 'cure' for a while before you put it in the frame also.

Definitely let it cure. Also try different printing settings. Watch out for the fixative, make sure you spray in a well ventilated area.

Canon 12x IS USM (S3 IS built-in Lens) -- 36-432mm (35mm EQ)

03/24/2004 12:37:25 PM · #7

Do you have a name for this spray? I have no idea what to look for, or where.

Originally posted by Calvus:

joanns

Fujifilm FinePix S5 Pro

03/24/2004 12:38:13 PM · #8

My favorite paper is Ilford Galerie Professional Inkjet Photo Range, Smooth Pearl - Instant Dry or the Smooth Gloss Instant Dry. The prints dry instantly and are never tacky.

GeneralE

Canon PowerShot S3 IS

03/24/2004 12:44:52 PM · #9

Try Blair spray fix (#105 is matte finish). Any decent art supply store will carry it ... it's most often used with charcoal, pastels, and other highly mutable media.

Message edited by author 2004-03-24 17:45:21.

faidoi

Pentax K10D

Pentax DA 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 AF

03/24/2004 12:53:29 PM · #10

Originally posted by GeneralE:

it's most often used with charcoal, pastels, and other highly mutable media.

I like using hair spray on newsprint when working with charcoal.

GeneralE

Canon PowerShot S3 IS

Canon 12x IS USM (S3 IS built-in Lens) -- 36-432mm (35mm EQ)

03/24/2004 12:57:52 PM · #11

Originally posted by faidoi:

Originally posted by GeneralE:
it's most often used with charcoal, pastels, and other highly mutable media.

I like using hair spray on newsprint when working with charcoal.

Anyone who's been to a lab where they process Pap smears will have noticed the plain white labels reading "Cytology Fixative" pasted onto cans of Aqua-NetÂ®.

Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L USM

03/24/2004 01:01:07 PM · #12

Wow! Interesting. I'll have to try that one.

Thanks for all your ideas!

Originally posted by GeneralE:

Originally posted by faidoi:

Originally posted by GeneralE:
it's most often used with charcoal, pastels, and other highly mutable media.

I like using hair spray on newsprint when working with charcoal.

Anyone who's been to a lab where they process Pap smears will have noticed the plain white labels reading "Cytology Fixative" pasted onto cans of Aqua-NetÂ®.

hsteg

Fujifilm X-T20

03/24/2004 01:05:17 PM · #13

heres a 25 dollar solution, dpc prints.

faidoi

Pentax K10D

Pentax DA 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 AF

03/24/2004 01:06:11 PM · #14

[quote=sonyp72] Wow! Interesting. I'll have to try that one.

Thanks for all your ideas!

Just like all chemicals you should test on a small area to make sure it doesn't affect the object in an unexpective way.

Canon EF 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 DO IS USM

03/24/2004 01:28:40 PM · #15

I'm checking an online source for this paper. It has sizes that i can't decifer. A4, A3, & A3+... what is basic 8x10??
Obviously, i'm a novice:(

Originally posted by joanns:

My favorite paper is Ilford Galerie Professional Inkjet Photo Range, Smooth Pearl - Instant Dry or the Smooth Gloss Instant Dry. The prints dry instantly and are never tacky.

cpanaioti

Canon EOS-40D

03/24/2004 01:34:23 PM · #16

Paper sizes:

//www.cl.cam.ac.uk/~mgk25/iso-paper.html

RHoldenSr

Canon EF 70-200mm f/4.0L USM

03/24/2004 03:10:49 PM · #17

We use to use "Krylon Spray Fixative: I believe it was whe I worked in Engineering.

Originally posted by sonyp72:

Do you have a name for this spray? I have no idea what to look for, or where.

Originally posted by Calvus:
You should not put a photo to glass. You should use a matte.

You can try buying some spray fixative it is a clear sealer and protector.

Originally posted by sonyp72:
I am having trouble with my photo paper. I've tried many brands, and seem to have the same issues. The print seems tacky, and will stick to the glass in a frame. I've tried satin finish, and this one seems to work better than any other - especially high gloss, but still poor results. Any ideas?

BTW - i have the Epson Stylus Photo 825

Natator

Canon EF 24-105mm f/4.0L IS

03/24/2004 03:45:00 PM · #18

Does the fixative stop prints fading so badly?

I use Epson ink/paper and love it. The one think I hate is how fast any photos exposed to light fade. I recently compared the same photo where one had been in my wallet (i.e. dark) and one on my desk (but not in direct sunlight) and the fading was horrendous.

Does anyone know if the DPC Prints stuff will fade so fast, or do they use an entirely different technique not even associated with inkjets?

Gordon

RIM BlackBerry Curve

Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 USM

03/24/2004 04:38:40 PM · #19

Couple of things

The print should never touch glass - any kind of photographic or inkjet print will stick and be damaged if it touches glass for an extended period of time. That is what a mat is for - provide a gap. The asethetic aspects of a mat are secondary.

Second thing. For my inkjet prints, I always let them cure for about 24 hours prior to putting them in a frame.

First hour, I lay it out on a sheet or two of paper, after an hour I'll put a blank sheet of paper on top for the night = you'll notice how much the shot dries by how warped that sheet of paper becomes.

Shelley

Nikon D200

Nikon AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor 18-70mm f/3.5-4.5G IF-ED

03/24/2004 05:31:39 PM · #20

You didn't say what kind of paper you use. Don't buy paper at office supply stores. Go to a camera store or somewhere that carries quality papers. I love the Epson Enhanced Matte. or the epson velvet...but that is expensive. Some good brands are Legion, Museo, by Crane although they can get pricey. Pictorico also makes some great papers. Especially their high Gloss white film. Prints look like Cibachromes on it...doesn't work with archival papers tho. The color life paper takes a while to dry and so does some of the Ilfords...Part of my job is printing of epson printers where I work. We also sell and use all the papers we sell, so I get to test them all. Lucky me...

GeneralE

Canon PowerShot S3 IS

Canon 12x IS USM (S3 IS built-in Lens) -- 36-432mm (35mm EQ)

03/24/2004 05:46:00 PM · #21

Originally posted by Natator:

Fixative will probably not prevent fading, although UV-resistant glass might.

DPC Prints are made on machines which use lasers to expose ordinary photographic print paper (Fuji Crystal Archive), and so have the same characteristics as "regular" photos made at a standard photo lab from negatives. Generally, the only difference between those and "archival" prints is that archival prints are rinsed longer after fixing and before drying (and cost way more!).

Natator