Help with Sharpness...... - DPChallenge Forums

Nikon AF Nikkor 85mm f/1.4D IF

04/26/2008 05:25:46 AM · #1

Looking for any suggestions on how to improve the sharpness of some of my prom images I was trying to take of my son yesterday.

I think I will end up using my 50mm for the shots or to get the full length of my subjects with my 18-55mm

Here are more pictures PreProm Portfolio

Message edited by author 2008-04-26 09:26:58.

pawdrix

Nikon D700

04/26/2008 05:27:21 AM · #2

It looks perfectly fine to me.

04/26/2008 05:34:25 AM · #3

some look ok on the web but once you look at the original file they are not sharp at all.

I am new to DSLR and was just trying to get some decent photos which I think I did with the exception of the backgroud distractions. Would have taken outdoor photos but we got hit with some bad weather so I'm limited to indoors at my house and then at the high school later today.

I read somewhere on the internet that the shutter speed should be equal too or greater than the focal length.... is this true... again to help with sharpness.

SaraR

Sony Alpha a7R III

Sony FE 24-70mm f/2.8 GM

04/26/2008 05:37:01 AM · #4

I just commented on one of the photos that it looked like a bit of motion blur had crept in - what shutter speed were you using? By and large the shutter speed = focal length rule is a useful one to remember, but it does depend on how steady you are, and also how still your subject is.

Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR II

04/26/2008 05:47:51 AM · #5

I just updated all of the pics with aperture, iso, and shutter speed.

Most were taken with either my 50mm or the 18-55mm and maybe some with my 85mm

Nikon D200

04/26/2008 05:50:43 AM · #6

For people, you don't really want to go much below 1/60 for a shutter speed without VR. The one shot where you were at 1/80 looks like the focus point might have been on the arm instead of the head?

Nonetheless, these seem fine although I agree they could be a bit sharper. Good luck!

04/26/2008 05:53:06 AM · #7

I guess the other thing I should ask is what is the best AF mode... I think I was using AI Focus but since this are portraits perhaps I should have used one shot.

SaraR

Sony Alpha a7R III

Sony FE 24-70mm f/2.8 GM

04/26/2008 06:07:52 AM · #8

I would say definitely one shot, focus on the eye, keep the shutter depressed half way and recompose.

SaraR

Sony Alpha a7R III

Sony FE 24-70mm f/2.8 GM

04/26/2008 06:09:39 AM · #9

Another thing to remember is that the further forward the subject is, the more the background will be thrown out of focus, which tends to produce more pleasing portraits.

04/26/2008 06:15:53 AM · #10

Sara...

Can you help translate this "depressed half way and recompose"

What do you me by recompose? I know you must think I am nuts for asking but I am pretty black and white, read between the lines...

Tez

Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6

Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 USM

04/26/2008 06:21:00 AM · #11

push the shutter half way down so the focus is good, then change the framing...

I wouldn't recommend doing this. Your camera will be fixed on a point a distance away, so if you move forward or back (which you will) the shot will be out of focus, or you'll miss the focus on where you want at least.

I always do portraits on one shot, set the focus point nearest to the eyes and shoot in one motion. So you compose the shot, then smoothly push the shutter halfway then all the way so its in focus. I dont think the 'focus then recompose' would really avail much unless you were at f/8 or so.

If i'm actually in the studio then i pick the centre point, make that on their nose, and since i'm on about f/6.3 up to f/11 (depends on the lighting i go for) then this guarantees everything is in focus.

smilebig4me1x

Canon EOS-400D Rebel XTi

04/26/2008 06:23:30 AM · #12

Originally posted by kswanson:

when you push the shutter button 1/2 way down (usually) it will focus and give a beep to let you know its "locked focus". then move the camera (without letting up on the button) to get your subject in the viewfinder...then press the button the rest of the way to take the photo.

smilebig4me1x

Canon EOS-400D Rebel XTi

Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6

04/26/2008 06:25:57 AM · #13

no matter what lighting im using or the distance im shooting, I always lock focus on the eyes...Is this wrong?

fixedintime

Canon EOS-350D Rebel XT

Tamron AF 18-200mm f/3.5-6.3 XR Di II for Canon

04/26/2008 06:27:58 AM · #14

If you are having problems to getting the auto focus to do what you want just go to manual focus. I have always thought I do better that way. Also if you can use a tripod.

04/26/2008 06:34:10 AM · #15

I was using manual and then the AV and TV modes too.

I don't take the photo until I have the focus locked. I try to pay attention and make sure my focus points or point is on the face.

Artifacts

Canon EF 24-105mm f/4.0L IS

04/26/2008 07:05:12 AM · #16

Related to camera focus, there are two issues with modern cameras:

1-They sometimes decide to focus somewhere other than where you intended.
2-You can't really tell it did unless you review it under full magnification in-camera or during post processing.

More than once I have discovered that pictures I thought were good when I looked in camera turned out to have atrocious focus when I looked at them in post processing.

To reduce these these two problems there are some things you can do. But you have to exercise more manual control. Set to manual camera settings with a single point focus. Center the area where you want maximum sharpness on the single point sharpening point, press half-way down to allow the camera to autofocus on that spot, re-compose the picture and press the shutter the rest of the way to take the picture. I wouldn't recommend total manual focus. Even in a SLR you can't see well enough to get it right.

Of course, if taking portraits with a tripod mounted camera you have more control to keep subjects in the same spot so you don't have to refocus every time. Once you have focus properly set then you can turn off autofocus for that series of shots until they are moved to a new position.

In situations where you are refocusing with every picture then it is always a good idea to take two or three frames of important pictures to make sure autofocus doesn't bite you.

Taking multiple frames will save you from bad focus results more than anything else.

Artifacts

Canon EF 24-105mm f/4.0L IS

04/26/2008 07:17:55 AM · #17

Another thing not talked about much here is controlling depth of field with f/stop changes.

Presumably you want your main subjects sharply focused but your BG soft or out of focus. If your f/stop isn't high enough then your main subject might not be sharply focused to the desired depth. If the f/stop is to high then your background my be more sharply focused than desired.

Another critical factor to ALWAYS keep in mind is distance from subject to background.

The shorter it is the sharper the background will be. If you position your subjects against a wall then the wall will be more sharply focused. Most of the time that is undesirable. So remember to position your subjects further away from their background for 'softer' background results.

Canon EF 17-40mm f/4L USM

04/26/2008 07:23:37 AM · #18

I will also try that too.

I did crop that one photo a bit more as you suggested (Artifacts)

Let me know if this is what you were thinking...

Haukur4

Canon EOS-350D Rebel XT

04/26/2008 09:01:38 AM · #19

the shutter speed is to slow, plus the aparture could be higher.

use flash if you dont have enough light

Artifacts