Author | Thread |
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04/15/2008 11:01:14 AM · #1 |
Hi All,
Got my first session in a studio on Saturday with a model, hope I can do her justice! Cant wait.
The Studio has 4 x Bowens 500 esprits, this is a really dumb ass question (so don't hang me) - do a I need a flash also?
Also, my lens has a HOYA UV Guard - I should remove this?
any other advice would be great as this is my first time.
CHeers
Tony
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04/15/2008 11:21:10 AM · #2 |
Congrats.
The Bowens are strobes/flashes... most likely 500 w/s. You will need a sync cable or radio transmitter but you wont need a flash unless you want to trigger the bowens optically.
And I would personally remove the UV guard. You probably wont be able to tell a difference either way but its just a lower grade piece of glass in front of your likely expensive lens. I personally only use the UV filter for protection when shooting sports.
Just my opinion. |
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04/15/2008 11:25:32 AM · #3 |
many thanks.
I will need a sync cable? can i not do it without? sorry but this is new......please can someone explain the difference with and without
I thought the lights would be on all the time?
many thanks
Tony
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04/15/2008 11:34:22 AM · #4 |
Well the bowens are strobes/flashes. "Lights" might be on all the time but you arent going to want to light your model with ambient light. You will need to have a method for tiggering the stobes, you most likely have three options, you can trigger them with a sync cord, some sort of radio slave, or if the bowens have an optical slave built in you can trigger them with an on camera flash.
Chances are good that if the studio you are using has bowens then they will have a sync cord, if not, these are usually very inexpensive... about $20 for a 25 foot cord. I think the sync cord connection on the rebel is on the left side of the camera under a rubber tab (or thats how it is on my Canon MkII).
Hope this makes sense. |
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04/15/2008 11:39:57 AM · #5 |
yeah it does.........thanks.....
I really didnt know that the lights flash on.....i really thought they where on all the time....
I really hate flashing lights.....knocks me sick.....lol
cheers
I'll call the studio/purchase
thanks again
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04/15/2008 12:12:06 PM · #6 |
i'd be very suprised if the studio doesn't have some kind of triggering mechanism you can borrow. If you had the trigger, you'd probably have the lights to use them on, and then you wouldn't need the studio anyways...
I'd probably keep on the uv filter to reduce any flare (if it's a good filter of course) without a hood and possibly remove any aberrations. I don't know what lens you're planning to use but I always use my "HMC super Pro 1" hoya filter with lights to do what I just mentioned. And it works!
Also, your comment about the flashes: you probably won't see them through the viewfinder due to it blacking out when you push the shutter so don't worry about getting sick from them :)
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04/16/2008 12:27:28 PM · #7 |
cheers :)
I am using a canon 50mm canon EF 1:1:8
any advice?
:) |
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04/16/2008 12:37:43 PM · #8 |
Originally posted by TonyUK: cheers :)
I am using a canon 50mm canon EF 1:1:8
any advice?
:) |
i thinks it good that you start off with a fixed lens, this way you're not getting distracted by zooming in and out if you were using a zoom lens.
i think the smallest aperture is 16 or 22? make sure you have the lights on a reduced power level, otherwise you won't be able to stop down as much as the lights will blow out your models skin tones when used at full power. |
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04/16/2008 01:20:06 PM · #9 |
great advice.....
so , you are suggesting I use the lowest aperture and a low light level? or somewhere between 16 and 22, and a low light level.
cheers this is great......I really don't wan to mess this up, or a tleast do the best I can ....
thanks
Tony
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04/16/2008 01:29:07 PM · #10 |
Originally posted by TonyUK: great advice.....
so , you are suggesting I use the lowest aperture and a low light level? or somewhere between 16 and 22, and a low light level.
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nope you misunderstood. if your using a wide aperture such as F1.8 to F4, you have to keep the strobes at a low light level, but if your using the flashes at high power level you'll need to stop down to F16 or even F22.
eta: i suggest you just start by setting the strobes on half power and the aperture of your lens at F8 and then just see what happens. if the picture is overexposed you stop down to F11 or 16 or lower the power of your strobes even more, or if the picture is underexposed you open the aperture to F5.6 or F4 or you just set the power of the flashes a bit stronger.
Message edited by author 2008-04-16 17:34:48. |
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