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02/22/2008 11:15:38 AM · #1 |
| Is there some type of formula or way to determine how to get the right shutter speed to match the right aperture? |
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02/22/2008 11:17:34 AM · #2 |
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02/22/2008 11:17:49 AM · #3 |
Well its all in metering th elight so sorta no but yes.
ANyways if your camera has an Aperture Priority Mode you can use it to set the aperture and the camera will autmaticly adjust the shutter based on light metering. Usually Av on some cameras
Same goes for Shutter priority mode it will adjust the aperture and ISo accordingly. Sometimes S or Tv on the mode dial.
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02/22/2008 11:18:53 AM · #4 |
No formula, too many variables like how much light there is, how much motion there is, what you want to achieve, doo you want to stop motion, do you want motion blur...
I'd start with using Aperture priority mode and go from there, once you get more comfortable with this setting you can start playing with exposure compensation and then go full Manual...
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02/22/2008 11:19:28 AM · #5 |
Sorry for the wise-guy answer before- but you need to decide on your own which "priority" you have for your photo. That's why many cameras have "shutter priority" and "aperture priority". One can depend on the other but it just depends on how much light you have available. If there's not enough light to meet your need, you can increase the ISO.
PS: there's no better way to learn about this stuff than to FORCE yourself to use MANUAL mode ... and the camera's ... uh ... manual.
Message edited by author 2008-02-22 16:22:34. |
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02/22/2008 11:19:37 AM · #6 |
eventually you'll get to a point where you can tell just by looking what values to use.
takes a while though...
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02/22/2008 11:19:52 AM · #7 |
Use the meter on your camera, you usually want to decide what you want out of your shot and work off of that. If you know you want a long exposure, you will need a small aperture, which will result in less light hitting the sensor. If you know you are trying to shoot something fast you'll need a wide aperature and fast shutter speed. TTL metering should give you the basics if not look in the tutorials
try here
//www.dpchallenge.com/tutorial.php?TUTORIAL_ID=45 |
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02/22/2008 11:24:31 AM · #8 |
Gordons kinda right on the eyeing it thing. While when I shoot with my K1000 35mm I use the light meter. I actually get the exposure right more often with my FX-3 which has a broken light meter!
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02/22/2008 11:52:07 AM · #9 |
Think about it like filling a cup of water using a funnel. When the exposure is right, the cup is filled. If the funnel has a large opening at the bottom, (large aperture/low f number like 1.8/fast lens) then the cup will fill in a very short time (high shutter speed.) If the opening at the bottom of the funnel is small (small aperture/high f number like 11 or 16) then the cup will take longer to fill (low shutter speed.)
Welcome to DPC  yungskeeme. You can learn all about photography here from the many helpful people that use this site. You will find that most subjects related to shooting photos have been covered in earlier threads, and there are good tutorials for most anything related to getting good photos.
Find out how to set the camera to "shutter priority" and also to "aperture priority". If you don't see it on the camera, check the camera's manual. Set the camera to one or the other, and look thru it while adjusting the variable, example, set to aperture priority, and watch the shutter speed change as you change the aperture manually.
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02/22/2008 06:59:37 PM · #10 |
| So basically I would have to find the right ISO as well. Im using a built in flash so im also going to have figure out wat feature im going to use (auto,full,slow,1/4,1/64,etc) |
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02/22/2008 07:23:00 PM · #11 |
Referring to the earlier example about a cup of water, higher ISO would be like making the cup smaller, so that a correct exposure (cup full) would be a smaller quantity of light.
When it is bright, use lower ISO's if you want. 200 is a good starting point, and if it is dark, like evening or indoors, you can go on up to 400 or 800 or more. There are guidelines in your camera manual about ISO. If in doubt, ISO 400 will work in most situations.
The easiest thing with flash if you are using it on camera, is to use "auto" until you have time to learn how some of the other things work. If you are going to use flash, higher ISO will give you more range with the flash, but things in the foreground may be washed out.
The best thing to do since you have a nice camera, is to experiment when you have time, and learn how to view the "exif" file that is with each image. It is a text file that is tagged into the image file, and contains all the data about the shooting time and camera settings for each image. By viewing the exif info, you can compare the settings and results while you look at the shots on your computer. Look in the help file in the program that you use to open the photos on your computer and search for exif and you will find it.
While you are learning, try to also find out about the connection between aperture and depth of field, ( DOF. )
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02/22/2008 08:00:35 PM · #12 |
Yes, it's called the sunny 16 rule.
BTW, it's not just shutter and aperture. It's shutter, aparature, and film speed (sensor speed).
Message edited by author 2008-02-25 09:54:29. |
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02/22/2008 08:22:07 PM · #13 |
And by the way, it's aperture, not aperature.
Originally posted by Nullix:
BTW, it's not just shutter and aperature. It's shutter, aparature, and film speed (sensor speed). |
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