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10/31/2007 01:04:01 AM · #1 |
Hi folks
I upgraded from a canon G3 to an XTi to be able to apply to Alamy -
This is my first DSLR, and I'm having trouble getting my pictures to come out as sharp as they did with the G3 (I am shooting on adobe RGB as per ALAMY requirements).
at 100% the dslr shots look a LOT softer/blurrier than the G3, even with a tripod.
(I'm using the f1.8 50mm since it is supposed to be tack sharp)
Is this purely a function of the 10MP versus 4MP?
Is the in-camera sharpening that different?
is this a common thing when people transition to dSLRs?
Will Alamy still accept files when they look that 'soft' at 100%?
Is there a good source/site to help understand how to make this transition, and what i need to do differently with a dSLR?
many thanks for the help, as always
tim
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10/31/2007 02:01:21 AM · #2 |
There are a few potential causes...
1) Canon do tend to product 'softer' JPGs straight out of the camera. This is related to noise removal. I don't know why they do it. It is annoying, and the XTi doesn't allow you to get rid of this. You can always re-sharpen it afterwards. You'll also find that if you shoot raw, this will generally produce a sharper image, as the in-computer RAW conversion is better at producing a sharp image.
2) You can increase the in-camera sharpening to help boost the image sharpness, but this gives visible sharpening artifacts (something that was probably there in your P&S too, so maybe you don't mind this). Shooting RAW gives a sharper image without these artifacts.
3) DSLR lenses will often be a little soft wide open. This is particularly bad for lenses such as the 1.8. Lenses are often sharpest around f5.6 - f8.
4) Also related to wide apertures is that the DOF is so shallow that any focusing errors will show up as noticeable softness in the image. P&S cameras have much greater DOF, so focusing errors aren't as much of a problem. I don't know what the fix for this is, except don't shoot wide open. :( I have a lot of trouble getting accurate focus on my 70-200 2.8. It's often out by up to a foot, which gives noticeable softness.
If you really want razor sharp images at 100% crop, shoot raw, shoot at f8, and post-process to sharpen the final image.
Message edited by author 2007-10-31 06:02:12. |
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10/31/2007 02:37:48 AM · #3 |
"If you really want razor sharp images at 100% crop, shoot raw, shoot at f8, and post-process to sharpen the final image."
2 follow up q's
1) do you recommend using CANON's raw converter, or Photoshop's?
2) which photoshop process best sharpens without risking artifacts?
thanks |
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10/31/2007 02:48:37 AM · #4 |
Just want to pick your brain a little since you seem to have a clue that I do not.....8>)
Originally posted by surfdabbler:
You can increase the in-camera sharpening to help boost the image sharpness, but this gives visible sharpening artifacts (something that was probably there in your P&S too, so maybe you don't mind this). Shooting RAW gives a sharper image without these artifacts. |
Are sharpening artifacts the speckles, or the zig-zag thingies?
Can I probably adjust these settings in my Nikon DSLR?
I'll have to get the manual out.
Originally posted by surfdabbler:
DSLR lenses will often be a little soft wide open. This is particularly bad for lenses such as the 1.8. Lenses are often sharpest around f5.6 - f8. |
That's handy to know.....I mostly shoot at the widest aperture just to get the light in.....I didn't realize there was a resolution advantage to particular aperture settings......thanks!
Originally posted by surfdabbler:
Also related to wide apertures is that the DOF is so shallow that any focusing errors will show up as noticeable softness in the image. P&S cameras have much greater DOF, so focusing errors aren't as much of a problem. I don't know what the fix for this is, except don't shoot wide open. :( I have a lot of trouble getting accurate focus on my 70-200 2.8. It's often out by up to a foot, which gives noticeable softness.
If you really want razor sharp images at 100% crop, shoot raw, shoot at f8, and post-process to sharpen the final image. |
That is what I want pretty much most of the time. I find it's a lot easier to soften an inage in PS than it is to clean up a soft image.
I'd rather not have to try and salvage what is essentially my screwup!
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10/31/2007 03:33:51 AM · #5 |
Originally posted by eia4tim:
"If you really want razor sharp images at 100% crop, shoot raw, shoot at f8, and post-process to sharpen the final image."
2 follow up q's
1) do you recommend using CANON's raw converter, or Photoshop's?
2) which photoshop process best sharpens without risking artifacts?
thanks |
1/ either will work ok, by ACR (photoshop), is much more powerful. For example much better at recovering "burnt highlights" etc. However Canon's has the dust removal bult in (never used it myself, as the Xt doesn't have this feature).
2/ you have many tools, and many processes. Sharpening is a subject all in itself. But to keep it simple and efficient, go with "unsharp mask", and play around with the settings to get the best result. (if you've never used it before, start with for example 100%, 1.5 pixel, 5 levels). look at the result both a 100% and at the picture as a whole.
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10/31/2007 03:51:59 AM · #6 |
Originally posted by eia4tim:
1) do you recommend using CANON's raw converter, or Photoshop's? |
Well, if you have photoshop use that. If like me you don't, use DPP. I wouldn't buy PhotoShop just for the RAW converter, but if I had it, I'd use it.
Originally posted by eia4tim:
2) which photoshop process best sharpens without risking artifacts? |
There is no gain without some risk. I don't know who I'm quoting there. Any sharpening can be overdone and give horrible artifacts. I generally don't bother sharpening an image except after resizing for the web, and then I'll use USM, 1 pixel radius, and level as high as I can go without noticeable artifacts.
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10/31/2007 04:00:18 AM · #7 |
Originally posted by NikonJeb:
Are sharpening artifacts the speckles, or the zig-zag thingies? |
Sharpening artifacts are normally 'halos' - bright lines around dark objects. Dark lines around bright objects also appear, but are less noticeable.
Originally posted by NikonJeb:
Can I probably adjust these settings in my Nikon DSLR? |
Yes, generally there is some level of control over this in the camera. Nikons by default have more sharpening (or less softening) compared to Canons. I generally prefer sharper images myself, but there's a trade-off of softness against noise. Either way, it can be fixed in post-processing if it's really a problem.
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