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10/25/2007 01:02:40 PM · #1 |
I have been shooting my my studio for a couple of years now... and I have noticed a trend in business... I am seeing a lot of portraits that are shot with the white light is almost a pure white color... and almost over exposed.... how are they getting these colors out of their equipment.... here is an example:
Here is one of my studio shots:
Here is what I do in the studio:... I used a main light off camera left... with a fill light 2 stops down off camera right... I use my exposo disc to get a white balance reading...
I just cant seem to get the colors that are in the first photo... I could really use some advice.
Thanks,
Tony
Message edited by author 2007-10-25 17:03:32. |
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10/25/2007 01:09:47 PM · #2 |
| Google: High Key photography. |
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10/25/2007 01:15:32 PM · #3 |
| Thanks for the input... but this photographer even gets those bright whites outside... with a blue background... red background... and I cant seem figure out how they do it... |
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10/25/2007 01:19:05 PM · #4 |
totally high key, if you got a light sensor on your camera and it says if it is to b right or dark, mine says -3 -2 -1 0 +1 +2 +3 i like dark photos because i can get more deeper colors out of them when processing so i tend to shoot at -2 when in manual mode. maybe try shooting +2 for you? open up the aperture so more light comes in, or take a longer exposure. usually dose the trick for me. another thing they might be doing is composing one photo from different exposures, by correcting each individual part of the photo, you can create an image that is unobtanable by one exposure. its all can be done in the processing stage of the photo. its usually something you cant expect stright from camera though it is possible
Message edited by author 2007-10-25 17:20:17. |
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10/25/2007 01:21:28 PM · #5 |
let me take a gander with your photo and see if what i come up with is what you want
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10/25/2007 01:29:41 PM · #6 |
Here is another example.. of a shot witha dark backgound...
I upgraded my alien bees to the uv coated flash bulbs...that helped a little... but do you think if I just shoot over a stop or two... it may help... I normally shoot at 1/200 f-9 or f10 at iso 100
If you look at the color of the flash...its almost a pure white.
Tony
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10/25/2007 01:30:45 PM · #7 |
Originally posted by Jimbo_for_life:
let me take a gander with your photo and see if what i come up with is what you want |
Sure ... not problem... do you need me to send you the original file?
tony |
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10/25/2007 01:33:56 PM · #8 |
I'm no expert but it looks to me like they are lit with just one light and overexposed to get some detail on the shadow side of the face. I think you can get a similar look by using a duplicate layer, adding diffuse glow and then playing with the opacity.
Rick
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10/25/2007 01:36:45 PM · #9 |
no i got it done just give me a second to upload it
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10/25/2007 01:42:15 PM · #10 |
Originally posted by Jimbo_for_life:
no i got it done just give me a second to upload it |
Thanks, for the help... I have been racking my brain for about a week now.... |
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10/25/2007 01:45:40 PM · #11 |
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10/25/2007 01:50:40 PM · #12 |
| if that is the case, i achieved that look by making multipul copys of the photo at different exposures, one for the skin, hair, shirt, eyes, and background, to achieve the highest possible color for each specific area. |
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10/25/2007 02:09:51 PM · #13 |
Originally posted by Jimbo_for_life:
if that is the case, i achieved that look by making multipul copys of the photo at different exposures, one for the skin, hair, shirt, eyes, and background, to achieve the highest possible color for each specific area. |
I'm not sure if that's what he's after ... but just a quick comment on the results you got: You can get almost those same results in just three steps: 1) duplicate the original layer, 2) set layer blend mode to Overlay, 3) adjust opacity to taste.
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10/25/2007 03:10:59 PM · #14 |
This was just simply taking the photo, duplicating the background layer and making it a "screen" layer in the layer modes. I then duplicated that layer as screen again and erased some parts that were blown highlights etc..
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10/25/2007 04:06:24 PM · #15 |
Are you looking for something like this?
[thumb]604721[/thumb]
Message edited by author 2007-10-25 20:16:48. |
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10/25/2007 04:31:59 PM · #16 |
Originally posted by Jimbo_for_life:
if that is the case, i achieved that look by making multipul copys of the photo at different exposures, one for the skin, hair, shirt, eyes, and background, to achieve the highest possible color for each specific area. |
Its a very cool look. I like it a lot...now I want to play around with multipul layers at different exposures ... I have been reading about HDR software... its got a cool look. I think I just need to start digging deeper into my photoshop book.
Tony |
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10/25/2007 04:33:36 PM · #17 |
You guys are getting closer... Its a hard look to duplicate. I think I need to play around with the screen layer option. Let me see what I can come up with.
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10/25/2007 05:01:00 PM · #18 |
Try increasing your exposure. Also, not shooting against dark backgrounds will help with the look.
It's part lighting, part camera technique, part set design/location.
Shouldn't need much photoshop if you shoot it right.
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10/25/2007 05:37:03 PM · #19 |
How about this?
I can send you the .psd if you want.
One way to help the process is to take an overexposed shot in RAW and bring it back, but not all the way to proper exposure and add contrast.
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10/25/2007 06:24:24 PM · #20 |
Here is 2nd try.
[thumb]604786[/thumb] |
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10/25/2007 06:42:30 PM · #21 |
What color mode are you shooting at and what color mode are you editing with? These can make a difference too. If you're shooting in sRGB instead of Adobe RGB then you're not getting the fullest range of color available to you. Then when editing you may even try converting it to prophoto RGB to edit (especially if you're shooting RAW) and then you'll have to convert the color profile depending on what medium you're output will be (CMYK maybe depending on the printer) or sRGB for email etc).
sRGB is like using a crayon box with 16 crayons, Adobe RGB is like the 64 crayon box with the sharpener in the back and then Prophoto RGB is like having a box of 200 crayons. |
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10/25/2007 07:25:13 PM · #22 |
| Is it mabey something that can be found in one of these photos, as far as i understand you are asking how to accomplish a pure white flash in a photo, but still sustain enough color so the origional image is recognizeable?Image 1 image 2 maybe if you reworded what you are trying to say, i got the example, i just need a bigger idea on what were trying to get at |
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10/25/2007 07:27:01 PM · #23 |
| may be possible to do by using different levels of hue, tint and saturation, in combination with the brightness and contrast? |
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10/26/2007 09:40:20 AM · #24 |
When you shoot:
1. use a custom white balance from a gray card.
2. use the histogram, expose to the right, and make sure that if you blow out the highlights its not in an important area of the image. |
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10/26/2007 12:31:58 PM · #25 |
I use an extreme color action that I like a lot (and use frequently - it's very popular with the high school seniors), you could try that out:
1. Duplicate layer, set mode to Screen
2. Duplicate screen layer, set mode to soft light.
3. Adjust opacities to taste.
Doesn't really suit all photographs, but when it does, it's really nice.
Linda
Message edited by author 2007-10-26 16:34:00. |
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