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01/07/2006 10:55:47 AM · #1 |
Hey everyone,
Anyone have a good trick on to how to Fake Natural Lighting? Usually, going ouside or placing the props/model near a window will do the trick, but since its winter and its dark at 4h30pm, the only good available light is from 11am to 1pm... and well... work takes priority, so its hard to have some good time for it.
I was wondering if anyone has any techniques to fake a good blueish natural light.
Right now, i have 2 400w and 1 800w AlienBees, Silver/gold umbrella, 30x60 Softbox and some Grids. Plus whatever little 100w light bulbs around.
Thanks for the help! |
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01/07/2006 11:02:54 AM · #2 |
I have several clamps lights and use daylight flood lights to simulate sunlight when none is available.
50 to 100 watts per bulb should do.
Message edited by author 2006-01-07 16:03:13. |
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01/07/2006 11:29:24 AM · #3 |
cant you use natural light bulbs? the full spectrum ones that try to mimic outdoor sunlight.
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01/07/2006 02:51:44 PM · #4 |
| Never heard of those light bulbs. Got any exemples? |
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01/07/2006 03:08:01 PM · #5 |
You can buy them at walmart, target, lowes and even home depot stores. They are called Daylight bulbs and come in different wattages. Here is the link to one I found on ebay so that you can see what it is:
Daylight bulb 5000K temp
HTH
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01/07/2006 03:28:07 PM · #6 |
This is gonna sound kinda silly, but here goes. I think a lot of what makes natural light shots stand apart from studio is the diversity in the catchlights. I have sometimes obstructed part of my softbox so that the catchlight doesn't appear like the large rectangular softbox catchlight. Or you can try placing semi-transparent shapes over the softbox (I'm thinking branchy shapes).
For me, it has less to do with what type of lights your using and more to do with how you position them. I would try to mimic the natural light set-up you would usually use for indoors. Too "well" lit all around the subject will be flat studio lighting. How about the softbox on one side, and a reflector on the other?
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01/07/2006 03:32:52 PM · #7 |
At work, a place where I have been for almost twenty years, we use a couple of differant looks with light.
Depending on the film of course, but, that is just a minor thing now with what happens in post production.
We usually use white light (tungsten) to simulate the Sun when on stage.
On location, outside, we pull out the blue light. HMIs are out of yours, and many other photographers reach due to expense. The killowatts that are used mimic sunlight pretty easily. The thing to remember is NOT to have sun light available on you subject with your blue light. It will not match. The sun is dynamic in structure meaning it moves, it changes. Instead, have the natural light as bg light, and the blue on your subject matter, decreasing the levels of the blue light as the sun decreases it's kelvin levels.
Blue light (5500 kelvin) can also mimic the moon at night. Leaving tungsten to be your working light on your subject.
Blue light can be bought at Home Depot as a medium based globe, or in a flourescent fixture.
I can go on.
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01/07/2006 07:04:09 PM · #8 |
I must be doing somthing wrong because i bought a bunch of lighting because i thought i needed it and found that with the right settings in the camera i hardly need any extra lighting. Maybe i need to read more?
I got a 4 pack of these sylvania "Daylight" bulbs that are 75 watts the say 850 lumens and then i got 2 100 watt flood lamps. I find the 2 75 watt sunlight bulbs are plenty and i somtimes dont even need ALL of the light. |
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01/08/2006 09:45:11 AM · #9 |
I was thinking, Perharps only using a 400w bulb directly oriented with the subject/prop, and lowering the temperature in a RAW editor would work as well?
I did some test and it seems to give somewhat what i'm looking for. Suggestions? |
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01/18/2006 06:34:00 PM · #10 |
| Hope you won't mind if butt in, you said you already have these alien bees,you know you can utilized your existing equipment in achieving the effect you need, try to fit out your existing lighting equipment with the colored gel used for stage and movie lighting, color gel sheets are available on different colors such as yellow,magenta, blue,amber and others, with a level of grade to suit the color effect you need for your image to mimic warm or cool tone and it can also withstand the heat of a 2000w halogen lamp of course the nearer the gel to the lamp the shorter lifespan it will have. for a studio flash fitted with a blue gel and camera white balance setting at daylight the effect will be bluish or moon light effect. you can also use it to color correct other lightsource such as tungsten lamp to come up with the daylight output by fitting it out with blue gel. |
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01/18/2006 07:19:02 PM · #11 |
Originally posted by RedOak:
Right now, i have 2 400w and 1 800w AlienBees, Silver/gold umbrella, 30x60 Softbox and some Grids. Plus whatever little 100w light bulbs around. |
The flash tubes used in AlienBees units are daylight-balanced at 5600ºK. Just set the white balance on your camera to 5600ºK, and then shoot away. Or, just shoot in RAW, and then set the white balance to whatever you want during post-shot editing.
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