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01/02/2006 07:31:46 AM · #26 |
Originally posted by ADGibson:
Holy Smokes Spaz! What are you shooting at f64? |
Product shots. One of the problems (if you can call it that) with large format cameras is that the "normal" lenses are pretty long. For example, with an 8x10 camera, a "normal" lens is in the 300mm range and if the product is small, since you have to focus so close, you may need all the DOF you can get. Sometimes you can't get the DOF from just stopping down and you would have to do some tilts and swings of the lens and focal plane to take advantage of the Schiempflug effect.
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01/16/2006 07:32:35 AM · #27 |
| so wavelength anymore tid bits you would like to say about these lights |
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01/22/2006 05:41:31 PM · #28 |
Hi Wave,
I bought the same setup. Here is what I found, the worst you mentioned, the housings, the first time I used them I had the model lights on a lot and the finger screws which hold the soft boxes on melted right into the light housing.
Since these flashes only have two settings and are not that powerful at that, I use them both on the high setting all the time and keep them close to my subject.
I used them for this image although I did a lot of post production editing for it.
Here is another image I used them for:
In this image the lights were just to the right and left of me with the camera. I had the one on the right aimed at the girl on the left and the one on the left aimed at the girl on the right. This is what I learned in stage lighting "Chris cross" lighting. Each light covers the shadow of the other.
Once I go through the bugs of inexperience, I was able to make some really nice images with them.
I will say this though, I live in NJ and there are some really good camera shops around me. This was not a great steal; I could have found the same quality here without even going online. My camera shop carries the stands for $29 each they are the lowest of all they carry. Like you said the backdrops are not of high quality either. The lights melted when using the model lights and the strobe trigger is a little fussy when it isn't pointed at the light.
Oh and my camera's hot shoe doesn't fire unless my shutter speed is below 160th so I had the same problem thinking something was broken.
Know your equipment.
The case that had the lights in it was crap and the zipper broke the first time I used it. The soft boxes were a pain in the ass to put together the first time but they work well and increase the light by at least one f stop which helps. Although the little plastic tips on the rods fell off so keep an eye on them if you take them apart a lot.
I like that I have lights and can use them now, but I now know if I am serious about doing portraiture I need to spend some real money and get professional lights. For weekend use and family stuff they are adiquite, but not for the real thing.
Caveat Emptor, buyer be wear. You get what you pay for, there is no such thing as a free lunch......enough? Well I learned the hard way. All in all it wasn't worth it. I will make the best of it though.
Mike
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01/24/2006 10:28:02 PM · #29 |
Mike,
I was looking at this set, myself. For the purposes of learning lighting, doing weekend protraits, etc., are they ok? It is, regardless of the quality, a lot of kit for the money. If these are truly a poor choice, what do you think is the best use of equivalent money (about $350 including taxes and shipping)?
Tom |
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06/20/2007 02:59:24 PM · #30 |
Just in case anyone else feels the need to PM me again after finding this thread: No, I don't recommend this kit.
One of the strobes is permanently stuck at full power, my only option is to physically move it, which changes the softness. The slave-only one died and won't fire. The backgrounds were all but useless, the bags for storage are crap and the zippers are all broken, and the umbreallas silvery lining is flaking/wearing off with minimal use.
As MPRPRO said, buyer beware. |
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