Author | Thread |
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12/19/2005 05:38:17 AM · #1 |
Suggest some good ways to photo holiday lights (indoor or outdoor) so they don't look like snapshots.
I particularly like the idea of makeing the lights show some rays, but I tend to not be able to get them in very much focus (if you follow me), so I would appreciate hearing some tips/tricks on this front.
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12/19/2005 05:42:57 AM · #2 |
Aahh, went out last night with kids, walked down 37th street in Austin where neighbors go a little crazy. Took a few photos, nothing remarkable composition-wise, but I believe technically good exposure-wise. I'm at work so won't be able to post any till the afternoon, but basically:
- tripod
- absolutely no flash
- aperture priority
- underexposed by 2/3rds of a stop
worked extremely well.
at f/4.5 it usually meant 1-2 seconds of exposure time @100asa. Depending on the brightness of the lights I guess.
hope this helps! (photos to come soon) |
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12/19/2005 06:03:09 AM · #3 |
Use a star filter (you can't do this too easily with PS), then add soft focus in PS. |
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12/19/2005 06:08:28 AM · #4 |
Originally posted by Twyla: I particularly like the idea of makeing the lights show some rays, but I tend to not be able to get them in very much focus (if you follow me), so I would appreciate hearing some tips/tricks on this front. |
Use a smaller aperature (larger number). This will give you the star-burst effect. This will also increase DOF. Then it's just a matter of setting the shutter value. Tripod is essential, even consider remote trigger or shutter timer.
HTH! |
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12/19/2005 06:34:48 AM · #5 |
Of course, what Tim & bobster said - star filter is a great way to achieve star effects. (They come in 4 and 6 rays versions, and possibly more). Closing aperture all the way down will let you count the blades on your lens diaphragm.
However, use these sparingly when outside - depending on the amount of ligts. Inside they can be very effective on a single ornament or a pair, but if you apply the star effect on a house covered in 10kW of lights, the stars will only ruin it.
Good luck, and make sure you post those photos somewhere so that we can enjoy them!
-Serge |
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12/20/2005 05:18:24 AM · #6 |
I think I am doing something wrong.
After 200 photos I am not getting any "stars" and the photos are coming out grainier than even neatimage can fix.
And nothing seems to be in focus. I don't think I've taken an in focus photo in several days now. I don't know why; if its me or the camera. Its about driving me crazy really.
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12/20/2005 05:26:22 AM · #7 |
Have you actually put a star filter on your lens? I use the Cokin P system.
Also, make sure you set a low ISO.
When you focus, make sure your camera focus locks onto a light. It may appear blurry if your tripod isn't sturdy enough, or if there is too much vibration or wind. |
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12/20/2005 10:22:12 AM · #8 |
A couple of questions from a relatively new photographer:
a) why would you use aperature priority?
b) why a low ISO for a low-light situation rather than a high ISO?
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12/20/2005 10:57:10 AM · #9 |
it depends on what you're trying to accomplish. The OP said she wanted the lights to have 'rays'...starburst effect. This is accomplished with a smaller sized aperature. If it is dark, and you leave the aperature up to the camera (auto, shutter priority, etc..), it will open it up all the way to let in more light.
Personally, I'd use manual mode with a mid-small aperature and adjust the shutter speed accordingly trying different settings to see what works out the best. These situations will be hard for the metering system to figure out (mostly black with bits of light).
Low ISO...lower noise, longer shutter speed, better star-burst effect (as long as you don't over-do it). You're probably going to be using a tripod anyway, and as long as your subject isn't moving, blur isn't really an issue, so go for the cleanest shot possible.
That's my take on it anyway. |
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12/20/2005 11:08:05 AM · #10 |
Here are my holiday lights. I decided to do something different. :)
Lisa |
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12/20/2005 11:09:51 AM · #11 |
Originally posted by lentil:
Here are my holiday lights. I decided to do something different. :)
Lisa |
Wonder what it would look like if it became an amazing circle :P
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12/20/2005 11:10:47 AM · #12 |
Originally posted by faidoi: Originally posted by lentil:
Here are my holiday lights. I decided to do something different. :)
Lisa |
Wonder what it would look like if it became an amazing circle :P |
i will have to read up about that. I want to try it. |
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12/20/2005 11:52:33 AM · #13 |
Originally posted by edavison: A couple of questions from a relatively new photographer:
a) why would you use aperature priority?
b) why a low ISO for a low-light situation rather than a high ISO? |
I suggested Av mode with somewhat underexposed metering, which is highly dependent on the amount of lights you are pointing your camera to. (And the distribution of lights versus metering mode - average, spot, etc.) You can play with the settings to achieve best results. Also, shoot in RAW if possible, so that you can do mild exposure and wb adjustments in post-processing.
100asa is important to eliminate noise. You won't be able to hand-hold it anyways, even with 1600asa, so why try? Set a tripod, and use the maximum clarity you can get - the lowest ISO rating.
I hope this helps. (Still haven't gotten to the images I took the other night. Will try tonight) |
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12/20/2005 09:54:42 PM · #14 |
Here are the photos:
 
- an interesting accident (flash AND long exposure - I realized late that I did not hear the shutter get back down)
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12/21/2005 02:03:50 AM · #15 |
Originally posted by edavison: A couple of questions from a relatively new photographer:
a) why would you use aperature priority?
b) why a low ISO for a low-light situation rather than a high ISO? |
The thing about any camera really, is that it wants to make every scene into daylight. This must be taken into consideration when shooting at night.
Aperture priority is great and I do about 80% of my shooting in it. The exception is night shoots where the camera would want a longer than necessary exposure. If you use Aperture Priority, your best bet is to stop the shutter speed down. I usually use -1 2/3 but really, playing with the setting is best. To answer the question, in about 80% of my photography, DOF is more important than shutter speed. However, if I am shooting action or in dim light, I switch to manual. I have found no use, in my photography, for shutter priority. I had a disaster yesterday when shooting in Program Mode for the first time. :)
Manual works best, allowing you to easily control aperture and shutter. With the instant 'see' of digital cameras, you can make slight adjustments of both for the best image.
A low ISO provides you with much less noise. The exception is if you want to stop motion. If the lights aren't moving (or if they are and you want the blur) use a low ISO with a slow shutter speed. |
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12/21/2005 02:09:07 AM · #16 |
duplicates. ARGH!
Message edited by author 2005-12-21 07:23:04. |
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12/21/2005 02:10:09 AM · #17 |
slow today?
Message edited by author 2005-12-21 07:33:08. |
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12/21/2005 09:19:30 PM · #18 |
Thanks to all for the answers to my questions; they make sense and help explain some basics.
I took some holiday light photos and I will post mine here shortly for your review and feedback.
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