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06/23/2003 10:15:34 PM · #1 |
i saw an e10 for 750 dollars, do you think it's still a good camera?
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06/23/2003 11:39:44 PM · #2 |
I have explored both the E10 and E20, so I am somewhat familiar with both. I have never used either one. While the lens in the E10 is a very good one, you have to consider it's limitations and the kind of photography you do. For one, the fastest shutter speed it can attain is 1/640th sec. This means that it's not a particularly good camera for outdoor or action shots where faster shutter speeds are required. It also limits the widest aperature you can use in very bright sunny conditions. The E20 is not as limited in this respect but if you use it's faster shutter speeds in PS mode, it degrades the picture.
The camera is also limited in the choice of an ISO setting. It can only go as high 320. There are cameras out there that can be set as high as 1600 ISO. This greatly impacts your low light/night shooting capabilities and will also restrict further exposure possibilities.
If you plan on doing alot of macro shooting you have to know in advance that the camera's closest focusing capability is 8" which is not very close. Other cameras from other manufacturers can get to less than an inch focusing. Even if you're not shooting macros the lens is limited in it's focal lengths. It will only go as high as 140mm (4x). There are teleconverters that can extend these limitations, but they also degrade the image and costs are high...especially for the 3x teleconverter that Olympus puts out. They charge about $650 for it. The 1.45 TC is much cheaper, as are the wide angle and macros.
I think both the E10 and E20 are very good cameras with high quality lenses that can give you great results, but they are mainly for the studio. Personally, I am waiting to see the new camera system that Olympus is putting out shortly, the four/thirds system, which will be a digital SLR system and will have interchangeable lenses. They should be coming out with it in the next couple of months.
Hope this has been helpful,
jeff |
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06/24/2003 12:42:16 AM · #3 |
thanks a lot, in fact i hesitate between an e10 and another one from olympus (C-740 Ultra Zoom) with a x10 zoom
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06/24/2003 02:10:33 AM · #4 |
The 740 is a point and shoot, basically, and the E10 is more a professional camera, and much better built too.
GL
jeff |
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06/24/2003 04:11:33 AM · #5 |
Personally I don't think you are that much better off with a C740 than you are with the camera you have. If you are going to upgrade cameras, why kick around 3MP cameras? Go for the C5050. You will not be disappointed. If you want more zoom, I suggest you save your money and get something where you can change lenses, a dSLR. Save a lot! I have a C5050 with a 2x teleconverter, so I have 6x zoom with very slight vignetting if any. Its seemed to work so far anyway. I shoot very few challenge shots with the teleconverter anyway. Of the 2 choices, I would get the E-10, but I think you would be better off waiting. I love my C5050 though. I highly recommend it. My photographs have taken a definite turn for the better with it. (see profile for details. I got my C5050 March 17th)
Olympus needs to put all the things together... Take the C740 zoom and put it on a C5050 so you have the big zoom with the 5MP resolution. The digital stabilizer they used for the 2100UZ would be a helpful tool as well. Oh well, they probably don't do that so you have to get an E-20, and then buy all the fixin's too. Good luck with whatever you decide - Bob |
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06/24/2003 04:31:24 AM · #6 |
I used an e-10 for a year. It's a great great camera, with a phenomenal sharp lens, high dynamic range, great color, and full, very ergonomic manual controls. Build quality is like a tank. BUT to get the best pics from this camera, you have to have great technique, and not use the automatic exposure or white balance. It does best on aperture priority and custom white balance.
Click my PBASE link and Model Photography links below. 99% of the work on those pages was done with the E-10.
The main limitation I found of this camera is that it's not as good as some of the newer DSLR's at getting a high shutter speed in low light conditions.
However, if you DO want to do studio photography, it's excellent, because you can sync with the strobe (flash) at any shutter speed (most cameras sync at only 1/125 sec). With a 1/640 sec shutter, camera shake, model movement, and pet movement is pretty much completely eliminated.
I've also taken it out in the rain and snow with no problems. See my Iceland gallery on the pbase page. The shots behind the waterfall, my camera got soaked!
That said, from what I've seen the c5050 is an excellent choice as well - probably better than the 740, unless you're desperate for the long zoom :).
Good luck deciding.
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06/24/2003 05:09:54 AM · #7 |
do i must understand that a c5050 is a better choice than the e10?
(i like the "deathtrap" photo of paris, my town)
Message edited by author 2003-06-24 09:13:55.
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06/24/2003 05:48:42 AM · #8 |
I've had mine for a few months. I like it. It's a LOT nicer than my other camera. I only use it on the auto settings though. I don't think I'll EVER figure out how to do all the manual settings. The only thing that I've heard about it, is when it first came out, there was something wrong with the auto focus feature. The only thing I've found with mine, is that the place you 'aim' to 1/2 click the button and get the auto focus is not in the middle of the screen, but rather near the bottom of the screen.
It's definately not a camera to get spur of the moment shots. Takes forever to turn on and then forever X's 2 to get the screen on. Also seems to have a lot of time between shots. But that could just be the card I'm using, so I've been told.
I do really like it though. |
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06/24/2003 06:17:23 AM · #9 |
Originally posted by bleex:
do i must understand that a c5050 is a better choice than the e10?
(i like the "deathtrap" photo of paris, my town) |
I don't want it to sound like the E-10 is a piece of crap. Magnetic9999 has shown us what it can do, no offense to any other E-10 users like Autool or Hbunch. Mostly I'm saying that I'd be looking toward higher resolution cameras. Obviously the best bet is to get a super nice camera (Canon 10D, EOS D-60, Fuji S2, Nikon D1X), but the prices are quite hefty for the camera, and of course lenses and stuff.
For $750, you can get a C5050 and a 512M CF card, maybe even a 1Gig Microdrive. Its not a hard camera to use and the results are good. Even I can take decent pictures with it. FWIW, I'd bank the money and pass on an E-10 for something 5MP+. You could also probably pick up a Sony F717 for around $800 at a retail store, maybe a little less on-line. I was very close to buying one of those at one point.
The E-10 is a good camera, I'm sure you would do fine with it. Just weigh out your options a little before you decide to buy anything. Personally, I am not an adept enough photographer to be able to use a sophisticated piece of equipment like that efficiently, and maybe not effectively. I think the camera that I bought suits my needs and has enough "stuff" to keep me learning about it, while still being able to aptly use it in more normal situations. Whatever you decide, I hope you find the camera that will satisfy these requirements. - Again, good luck. I know it can be a tough decision.
BoB
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06/24/2003 06:40:11 AM · #10 |
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06/24/2003 07:35:03 AM · #11 |
heh. the europe gallery is one the only ones that DIDN'T use the e-10 :P.
re e-10 vs 5050 - i think it all depends on what you want to do with the camera, and how much time you want to spend processing the files and so forth.
the 5050 is a lot more portable, higher resolution, and produces probably more usable shots direct from the camera. and probably works better in automatic mode.
the e-10 is much bigger and solid, is designed to look and feel professional, produces shots with high dynamic range that can look 'flat' straight from the camera and need to be worked on in photoshop, and need you to be attentive to settings. choose this one if you want to shoot in a studio environment.
Originally posted by bleex:
do i must understand that a c5050 is a better choice than the e10?
(i like the "deathtrap" photo of paris, my town) |
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06/24/2003 09:04:27 AM · #12 |
| The one thing that never seem to come up when discussing the E-10/E-20 in the true 'through the lens' viewfinder. It's just like my film SLR and I love it. It's the feature that sold me on the camera. I had a C-3000Z and the range finder drove me crazy (I never was sure what I was going to get) and the LCD was too hard to use outdoors. Just one more thing to consider I suppose. |
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06/24/2003 09:12:56 AM · #13 |
Originally posted by magnetic9999:
the 5050 is a lot more portable, higher resolution, and produces probably more usable shots direct from the camera. and probably works better in automatic mode.
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For me, the C5050 in program mode is about one step better than leaving the lens cap on. It works okay outside where there is plenty of light. Indoors when you need the flash, it is totally dependant on your subject. If your subject is animated, as in alive and can move 1" per hour, then you mind as well forget it. The camera uses the best settings for a picture where you aren't using the flash, but also flashes. It makes for some cool visual effect type pictures, but making simple snapshots is almost pointless. I'll admit that I haven't used the camera much in program mode, but I was so frustrated by it, I'm never going to try it again. There probably is away to make it more automatic (so you don't shoot indoor shots with 1/2sec shutter and have the flash fire too), but I don't know if I will ever make it work right. Even with this shortcoming, the image quality for the price is tremendous.
Listen to Mag though. I don't know a whole lot about the E-10, especially how to use it. He's the man.
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06/24/2003 01:56:03 PM · #14 |
cool. i didnt know that about the c5050. thing is, it's a much newer camera than the e-10, which would explain why the pics are so much more 'popping' straight out of the camera ...
Originally posted by inspzil:
Originally posted by magnetic9999:
the 5050 is a lot more portable, higher resolution, and produces probably more usable shots direct from the camera. and probably works better in automatic mode.
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For me, the C5050 in program mode is about one step better than leaving the lens cap on. It works okay outside where there is plenty of light. Indoors when you need the flash, it is totally dependant on your subject. If your subject is animated, as in alive and can move 1" per hour, then you mind as well forget it. The camera uses the best settings for a picture where you aren't using the flash, but also flashes. It makes for some cool visual effect type pictures, but making simple snapshots is almost pointless. I'll admit that I haven't used the camera much in program mode, but I was so frustrated by it, I'm never going to try it again. There probably is away to make it more automatic (so you don't shoot indoor shots with 1/2sec shutter and have the flash fire too), but I don't know if I will ever make it work right. Even with this shortcoming, the image quality for the price is tremendous.
Listen to Mag though. I don't know a whole lot about the E-10, especially how to use it. He's the man. |
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06/24/2003 03:54:41 PM · #15 |
| this thread interests me alot as I'm looking into upgrading myself. it seems like the general consensus, for the type of photography I do (not studio), would be to go with a newer higher resolution camera even if it means not getting an SLR, which I like the idea of. I've narrowed it down to the Sony DSC717, the Minolta DIMAGE7i, or the Olympus5050z. I already own an olympus and I'm not that happy with it, so I'm shying away from the 5050 for that reason and also because it seems to cost more than the others. I also found an Olympus e20 for pretty cheap on ebay and I was wondering how that was. I'm finding good prices on ebay, but im a little worried about the quality of the kits they are selling. Whatever I get I want to get it with telephoto, wideangle, polarizer, etc. kit as well as a bag and extra large memory cards. I'm not sure if the other products in their kits are grey market immitation products. The prices are sooo much cheaper though, and from people with alot of positive feedback. Any suggestions? |
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06/25/2003 09:55:53 AM · #16 |
again, i'm not saying the e-10/e-20 (they are the same camera, except that the e-20 has higher resolution but slower read/write times because the processing is no faster but the files are bigger) are "studio" cameras, only, although they do excel in that role.
Non-studio shots:
Iceland
Washington DC Street Photography 1
Landscape Challenge
Wildlife
etc :)
the main caveat of the e-x0 cams is poor action photography in low light. but ultimately, these are great cams for someone that wants a very traditional style digital SLR with control over every parameter. At the same time, you have to maximize that control to get good results from the camera. It's not that forgiving in terms of givng you good results in Program AE.
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06/25/2003 10:00:06 AM · #17 |
that's crazy. i wonder if it got wacked or dropped.
as far as the spur of the moment goes, i just leave mine on instead of turning it on and off. with a $40 digipower dps9000 lithium battery pack it can stay on for like 8 hours without running out of gas. those are great to have for it.
also, u're kinda supposed to use the lcd screen not that much compared to the glass viewfinder. since it's a true SLR, the glass vf gives you focusing and framing precision the lcd doesnt have. plus the lcd eats the batteries :). i only use my lcd to take shots when im being super stealthy or needing to swivel it out and shoot at a weird angle.
Originally posted by hbunch7187:
I've had mine for a few months. I like it. It's a LOT nicer than my other camera. I only use it on the auto settings though. I don't think I'll EVER figure out how to do all the manual settings. The only thing that I've heard about it, is when it first came out, there was something wrong with the auto focus feature. The only thing I've found with mine, is that the place you 'aim' to 1/2 click the button and get the auto focus is not in the middle of the screen, but rather near the bottom of the screen.
It's definately not a camera to get spur of the moment shots. Takes forever to turn on and then forever X's 2 to get the screen on. Also seems to have a lot of time between shots. But that could just be the card I'm using, so I've been told.
I do really like it though. |
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06/25/2003 10:16:31 AM · #18 |
Heres are a few of the things that I have found in the year that I have had my E-10.
I love the feel of it and the view finder, except if you wear bi-focals you will find it hard to manual focus. There is a very fine line between being in focus and being out. When it is in it is SUPER and when it is out it is really BAD.
To get a good picture it must have the right exposure or it goes to hell real fast. That may be true of all digital though.
I can shoot for quite a long time on just nickle-metal hydride batteries. Probably average about 100 frames in SHQ with only the view finder. I always use the AC converter when shooting in the studio (my garage).
I avoid taking pictures of fast moving subjects inside, like kids and pets.
I use manual mode with autofocus most of the time. This seems easiest with the best results for me.
Just some things to consider.
Mine will have to do me for a long, long time so I just love it!
Dick |
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06/27/2003 12:16:19 AM · #19 |
I've had my E-20P for several months now, and I really love it. The focus is fast, and the lag time between pressing the button and taking the picture is much, much better than with my C-4040.
All the controls are right out there on the outside, so I very rarely have to access a menu to go to a manual or other special mode.
It's heavy, so it doesn't always come along when I'm going to be out for extended periods.
The memory access time is slow, so I've had to train myself to stay within the boundaries of the buffer. As long as I don't run over the buffer, it works fine for action photos.
I have one major complaint about the camera, though.
It's very picky about batteries. It won't accept many of my batteries, apparently because of a poorly designed battery holder that doesn't make contact with the base of some batteries.
Has anyone found a solution for this problem? |
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06/27/2003 01:04:03 AM · #20 |
I haven´t read it all here but I still have my E-20 and a C5050Z, I have had a E-10 and my wife has a C730UZ, and if I had to choose just one of those it will absolutely be the C5050. Go and look at the pictures we all have taken with this fantastic camera. And as have been said here before, get yourself a teleconverter. If you want a great camera with much zoom, find a used C2100UZ (with stabilizer!). Just 2,1 Mpixels but oh so good. I still have mine and I use it very often.
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06/27/2003 01:27:15 AM · #21 |
Originally posted by JasonPR:
this thread interests me alot as I'm looking into upgrading myself. it seems like the general consensus, for the type of photography I do (not studio), would be to go with a newer higher resolution camera even if it means not getting an SLR, which I like the idea of. I've narrowed it down to the Sony DSC717, the Minolta DIMAGE7i, or the Olympus5050z. I already own an olympus and I'm not that happy with it, so I'm shying away from the 5050 for that reason and also because it seems to cost more than the others. I also found an Olympus e20 for pretty cheap on ebay and I was wondering how that was. I'm finding good prices on ebay, but im a little worried about the quality of the kits they are selling. Whatever I get I want to get it with telephoto, wideangle, polarizer, etc. kit as well as a bag and extra large memory cards. I'm not sure if the other products in their kits are grey market immitation products. The prices are sooo much cheaper though, and from people with alot of positive feedback. Any suggestions? |
I'm not sure where you've seen the prices for 5050's, but mine 3 months ago was delivered to my house for $600. I knew a lot about the Sony and considered it at one time. I have a friend with an F707 and it takes great pictures, but he was stuck (at the time) with only a 128M memory stick. Not to mention the flash broke after he had the camera 6 months. It cost $195 dollars to fix. It was sticking shut. That seemed more than a bit steep to me. What I've been told has been to buy one from somewhere like Best Buy and put a 3 or 4 year warranty on it for $100. The cam costs $800 or so, with another $100, well that seems a bit more than the 5050. I didn't consider the dImage at all. There was no where locally that carried them so I couldn't really see what they could do, plus they were more expensive than the 5050. The final decision was based on my experience with Olympus, i.e. That all the stuff I bought for my Oly C3000 would also fit on a C5050. No rebuying of stuff. I've gotten 2 ribbons with it. It's hard to complain about that.
Bob
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04/08/2004 11:13:27 AM · #22 |
I have an E-20N...
And I have just started in photography but repeatedly received compliments whenever I've gotten prints done. I have been very amazed by some of the color captured by this camera. I didn't think digital could be so nice.
I've found it extremely good for low-light still photography. It does tend to be poor on action photos when the flash is not used. With the FL-40 Flash in use I have few problems. And yes, the buffer can be a tad slow...
Battery life is alright, but I picked up a Li-pol battery grip and am totally blown away by its capacity. Using the flash will still drain it. But if you don't use the flash you should be game for several hundred photos upward to a 1,000 on a single charge.
Very good battery methodology. The same battery compartment is designed for AA's, Li-Pol, and the battery grip.
SLR but non removable lens. (Yeah, I want the $400 extension lens.)
I got mine as a refurbished unit off of eBay a couple years ago and have truly loved it.
The next camera I buy will have to be a 10megapixel +, with high ISO speeds (the 1600 someone mentioned sounded nice). And a 256meg buffer. If it can cook and do dishes I'd be well pleased.
If you're a pro, you might want something higher. If you're novice to intermediate it should have enough bells and whistles to keep you entertained for a while. I am still want a warm clear night to go fiddle with the bulb mode.
=)
//www.dpchallenge.com/portfolio_mgr.php
(in particular check out the skies and landscapes...also note the burst of light which was a photo taken in a night club of some effects lighting...) |
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