New Canon Lenses and Accessories - Opinions

Canon EF 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 DO IS USM

09/14/2004 05:55:48 PM · #1

Now I have my new camera, I am itching to accessorize. (Gee this is expensive.)

I'd appreciate your opinions and advice on my "accessorizing" plan. Buying from Canoga camera, pretty good prices, and a good reputation.

I think I am going to go for the Canon 70-200/4L for my outdoor shots, and the 50mm 1.8 for indoor use. I also have the kit lens, which seems to take good shots, but silly how it felt when I screwed in a UV filter today into it's plastic threads! I hope someday to perhaps replace it with the new 17-85mm USM EF-S lens, if it turns out to be good. (Or I might eventually get some other lens for that range. I've been considering the new Sigma 17-125, which isn't expensive.

I plan on buying a B+W UV filter for the 1.8 (not multicoated, mistake?) I had a B+W for my Canon G2, and it seemed to be very resiliant and "stayed out of the way".

I want to buy the B+W UV for the 67 mm 70-200/4L lens, but wonder if I should get the multicoated for this L lens for outdoor use? And the B+W polarizer is kind of expensive--is it worth it? Or is Hoya good enough? Again is multicoated important?

For a carrying case, I am getting the LoweProwe Off Road 2.

For cleaning my sensor, if it gets dirty, I am getting the hurricane blower. I don't see any other special cleaning kits like I've seen mentioned here on the site.

I might also go for a graduated filter for the L lens. Never used one yet. Recommendations?

Any other recommendations? I'm already up to more than I paid for the camera! Sorry for all the questions. Thanks in advance.

cpanaioti

Canon EOS-40D

09/14/2004 05:58:34 PM · #2

Advice for filters...

Don't buy a separate set for each lens (other than UV). Buy a set for the largest lens and step up rings for the rest, much cheaper so leaves you some $$$ for other toys. Just a thought.

Natator

09/14/2004 05:59:55 PM · #3

Do you have the battery grip?

That was the bestest ever accessory I got for the 10D, would never be without one again.

Canon EF 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 DO IS USM

09/14/2004 06:18:34 PM · #4

Originally posted by cpanaioti:

That's a real good idea at least for the polarizer! I like to have a UV lens protector on my lenses at all times.

Also, I probably need lens hoods? Those aren't cheap, maybe that can be done with the step up ring.

cpanaioti

Canon EOS-40D

09/14/2004 06:25:34 PM · #5

Originally posted by nshapiro:

Also, I probably need lens hoods? Those aren't cheap, maybe that can be done with the step up ring.

That would only work if the hood screws in like a filter. However, Canon lens hoods are specific to the lens.

Message edited by author 2004-09-14 22:26:05.

09/14/2004 06:50:18 PM · #6

Originally posted by Natator:

Do you have the battery grip?

That was the bestest ever accessory I got for the 10D, would never be without one again.

What do you like about it -- the handling for portrait mode or the extra battery power? So far (maybe until I get new lenses), my Rebel seems to be very efficient on batteries (and I have the LCD on "hold". The grip is $99 at Canoga.

Natator

Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM

09/14/2004 07:10:59 PM · #7

Originally posted by nshapiro:

Originally posted by Natator:
Do you have the battery grip?

That was the bestest ever accessory I got for the 10D, would never be without one again.

What do you like about it -- the handling for portrait mode or the extra battery power? So far (maybe until I get new lenses), my Rebel seems to be very efficient on batteries (and I have the LCD on "hold". The grip is $99 at Canoga.

I like it for both, but most importantly by far for the portrait mode.

Not worth it for battery life alone as realistically for just that it would be easier to just carry a spare battery.

doctornick

Apple iPhone 13 Pro

09/14/2004 07:19:35 PM · #8

Neil congrats! You are going to have loads of fun with your new toys! Now concerning filters, if you are going to use them get the best multicoated filter available, there is no point putting a $10 piece of glass in front of an $800 lens. I use Hoya S-HMC Pro UV filters, highly recommended! For the Polarizer get the Hoya S-HMC Circular Polarizer. The B & W Graduated ND filter is a must in any landscape photography, it's very well made, kinda expensive though but worth it.

MWitt

Tokina AF 28-70mm f/2.8 ATX Pro-SV for Canon EOS

09/14/2004 07:32:50 PM · #9

Originally posted by Natator:

Originally posted by nshapiro:

Originally posted by Natator:
Do you have the battery grip?

That was the bestest ever accessory I got for the 10D, would never be without one again.

What do you like about it -- the handling for portrait mode or the extra battery power? So far (maybe until I get new lenses), my Rebel seems to be very efficient on batteries (and I have the LCD on "hold". The grip is $99 at Canoga.

I like it for both, but most importantly by far for the portrait mode.

Not worth it for battery life alone as realistically for just that it would be easier to just carry a spare battery.

May I ask what you are refering to when you talk about having the battery grip for portrait mode? Are you talking about a weight difference or battery life difference? Or?

doctornick

Apple iPhone 13 Pro

Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM

09/14/2004 07:39:07 PM · #10

With the battery grip you get an extra shutter button on the bottom right of the camera so theat when you shoot in portrait orientation you have a more comfortable position.

MWitt

Tokina AF 28-70mm f/2.8 ATX Pro-SV for Canon EOS

09/14/2004 07:44:27 PM · #11

Originally posted by doctornick:

With the battery grip you get an extra shutter button on the bottom right of the camera so theat when you shoot in portrait orientation you have a more comfortable position.

Ahhhhh, Excellent! Thanks for the info.

09/14/2004 07:53:17 PM · #12

Originally posted by nshapiro:

...I want to buy the B+W UV for the 67 mm 70-200/4L lens, but wonder if I should get the multicoated for this L lens for outdoor use? And the B+W polarizer is kind of expensive--is it worth it? Or is Hoya good enough? Again is multicoated important?...

For many of us Hoya filters may be good enough, for some they are not. If you want the best, B+W and Heliopan would be my recommendation. I use nothing else anymore.

Follow this link to find out about B+W glass and their filter coating options.

09/14/2004 08:42:27 PM · #13

Originally posted by zeuszen:

Originally posted by nshapiro:
...I want to buy the B+W UV for the 67 mm 70-200/4L lens, but wonder if I should get the multicoated for this L lens for outdoor use? And the B+W polarizer is kind of expensive--is it worth it? Or is Hoya good enough? Again is multicoated important?...

For many of us Hoya filters may be good enough, for some they are not. If you want the best, B+W and Heliopan would be my recommendation. I use nothing else anymore.

Follow this link to find out about B+W glass and their filter coating options.

Then the question becomes: how important is multicoating? or slimline design? These are as expensive as some lenses!

Canon EF 28-135mm F/3.5-5.6 IS USM

09/14/2004 09:21:06 PM · #14

Ok, I ordered a bunch of stuff. Now I am broke. Who knew SLR accessories could be this expensive. Though I have to say the kicker was that I saw lens hoods priced in the 400+ dollar range. Geesh.

lykofos

Canon EOS-40D

09/14/2004 11:19:30 PM · #15

Originally posted by zeuszen:

B+W and Heliopan would be my recommendation. I use nothing else anymore.

I'll second that notion. A Heliopan SH-PMC UV filter went onto my 28-135 as soon as it came out of the box. $82 is kind of expensive for a $400 lens, but it has been great so far. Protection with optimal image quality, but at a price.

I've been doing a lot of rodeo shooting lately, and I feel much safer cleaning dirt/dust off of a filter than the front lens element. I've also had a few close calls were rocks were kicked up and hit my hand while zooming (only centimeters away from the front element).

kadac00

Canon EOS-20D

Canon EF-S 17-85mm f/4-5.6 IS USM

09/15/2004 03:05:18 AM · #16

Originally posted by lykofos:

I've also had a few close calls were rocks were kicked up and hit my hand while zooming (only centimeters away from the front element).

So does anyone make bullet-proof filters?

aKiwi

Canon EOS-7D

Canon EF-S 17-85mm f/4-5.6 IS USM

09/15/2004 05:31:45 AM · #17

That new new 17-85mm USM EF-S seems very interesting to me. Anyone know when that will get released? I am interested (Dreams are free) in perhaps getting the 20 D with that as the initial lens. Then next step would be the 70-300 so there isn't a gap.

09/15/2004 07:39:29 AM · #18

Originally posted by nshapiro:

...Then the question becomes: how important is multicoating? or slimline design? These are as expensive as some lenses!

I've posed this same question and discussed with a few people who should know. The consensus seems to be that single-coating is essential, less for fixed lenses (with fewer elements) than for zooms. According to reputable lab tests, multi-coating adds immeasurably little improvement. Canon has gone so far as to say that multi-coated filters do nothing in the way of reducing flare and ghosting, but, instead, improve light transmission (which, I take to it mean, improves image quality).

Multi-coating appears to have become increasingly important to sellers as an easy marketing tool. A Leica rep I talked to about this, bemoaned the fact that everybody (consumers) look for multi-coated filters, when they should be looking for precision glass and overall filter quality. Leica recommends that no filters other than B+W be used on their lens glass.

The advantage of slim-line filters is, I believe, to reduce/eliminate vignetting on wider lenses. One disadvantage is that these provide no thread for stacking, although -who would want to stack filters?

Message edited by author 2004-09-15 11:40:37.

09/15/2004 07:45:42 AM · #19

Well, I ended up falling for the marketing blitz, and got the multicoated B+W polarizer for $20 more (20%). I was starting at this stuff so much, I just wanted to order everything and "get it over with"!

I hope the 200mm is enough for me.

The problam with all the B+W filters at Canoga is they are all out of stock. But I'm not in a big hurry.

Now, can someone give me some tips on how to change my lenses without getting dust on my sensor? And can someone repoint me to the link where you can buy the cleaning kit and swabs in case blowing off the sensor with the Hurricane blower doesn't work?

Thanks for everyone's advice.

Spork99

Canon EOS R8

Canon RF 16mm F2.8 STM

09/15/2004 07:54:59 AM · #20

Originally posted by zeuszen:

Originally posted by nshapiro:
...Then the question becomes: how important is multicoating? or slimline design? These are as expensive as some lenses!

I've posed this same question and discussed with a few people who should know. The consensus seems to be that single-coating is essential, less for fixed lenses (with fewer elements) than for zooms. According to reputable lab tests, multi-coating adds immeasurably little improvement. Canon has gone so far as to say that multi-coated filters do nothing in the way of reducing flare and ghosting, but, instead, improve light transmission (which, I take to it mean, improves image quality).

Multi-coating appears to have become increasingly important to sellers as an easy marketing tool. A Leica rep I talked to about this, bemoaned the fact that everybody (consumers) look for multi-coated filters, when they should be looking for precision glass and overall filter quality. Leica recommends that no filters other than B+W be used on their lens glass.

The advantage of slim-line filters is, I believe, to reduce/eliminate vignetting on wider lenses. One disadvantage is that these provide no thread for stacking, although -who would want to stack filters?

As for stacking filters, it is fairly common when shooting film, specifically when color correcting for light sources like flourescents (you may need a +5M and a +30M to get the green cast out). Another instance is color balancing slide film to neutral, or compensating for emulsion batch to emulsion batch variation. If you have to switch batches in the middle of a big shoot, you don't want half of your chromes to have a color shift that the others don't. ND filters are another example of filters that can be stacked. A 3 stop ND filter and a 6 stop ND filter can be stacked to make a 9 stop ND filter, should that much really be necessary. You just don't want to get carried away and introduce flare/vignetting, but stacking 2-3 filters is not a huge deal.

09/15/2004 07:57:27 AM · #21

As to stacking, I am often lazy and stack the polarizer on top of the UV filter. Hopefully not a problem, I've never at least "noticed" it to be one!

09/15/2004 08:15:21 AM · #22

Originally posted by nshapiro:

...can someone give me some tips on how to change my lenses without getting dust on my sensor?...

Plan ahead, so you don't have to change lenses unnessecarily. When you do change lenses, try to do it efficiently and quickly, but never without blowing away potential dust particles from the lense(s) (both the one to be mounted and the one that comes off). Do not use the blower on the camera itself while no lens is mounted or the dust cap is off (unless, of course, there is already visible dust on mirror/sensor). Use the dust caps.

Choose a suitably clean and wind-still location for changing lenses.
It helps to have a second body, one with your favourite or general purpose lens permanently mounted.

I've had my 10D for about six months now and never had to clean the sensor... yet.