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DPChallenge Forums >> Individual Photograph Discussion >> A first attempt at the 'Brenizer Method'.
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Showing posts 26 - 38 of 38, (reverse)
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 10/10/2012 11:18:51 AM · #26
Originally posted by DrAchoo:
... the real advantage is you can achieve a thin DOF while capturing a larger scene without distortion from a WA lens.

I see ... my first attempt wasn't so good -- some "holes" in the source shot sequence so it looks like a partly-completed jigsaw puzzle, and even at a focal length of 193.2mm (35mm EQ) I don't have a very shallow DOF ... I'll have to try again at maximum zoom ...
 10/10/2012 11:33:31 AM · #27
Originally posted by CEJ:
Originally posted by Cory:
Lots apparently.


Okay, but what?

As soon as I get a few hours free I will return to this post with two examples and I would love for you to tell me definitively which is which and why you are making that decision.


If the composition has any depth to it with subjects at various distances etc I think I could spot the PP in ten seconds. Sounds like a challenge! :)
 10/10/2012 12:51:06 PM · #28
Originally posted by CEJ:
Originally posted by Cory:
Lots apparently.


Okay, but what?

As soon as I get a few hours free I will return to this post with two examples and I would love for you to tell me definitively which is which and why you are making that decision.


I welcome the challenge. :)
 10/11/2012 09:29:09 AM · #29
This looks interesting. I think I'd better use the 100mm at 2.8 than the 50mm at 1.8... right?

Message edited by author 2012-10-11 13:53:02.
 10/11/2012 09:51:51 AM · #30
Originally posted by tome:
This looks interesting. I think I'd better use the 100mm at 2.8 rather than the 50mm at 1.8... right?


Actually, it's not obvious which would work better. It would take experimenting.
 10/11/2012 11:53:18 AM · #31
Originally posted by tome:
This looks interesting. I think I'd better use the 100mm at 2.8 than the 50mm at 1.8... right?


Not 100% positive, but I think the only thing that matters is the actual size of the aperture in diameter (not f-stop).

100mm f/2.8 gives you an aperture of (100/2.8) = 35.7mm
50mm f/1.8 gives you an aperture of (50/1.8) = 27.8mm

So you get about 28% more width to your background blur with the 100mm. But to get that extra 28% you would need to take four times as many images to cover the same field of view.

Half of this was speculation on my part, so someone feel free to correct me if this doesn't sound right.

Message edited by author 2012-10-11 15:57:50.
 10/19/2012 02:34:08 AM · #32
Very interesting!

Can we put it in this way, that the method allows to capture a wide angle scene with the shallow DOF of a telephoto lens?

And is there a way to do the opposite, that's to say to capture a telephoto scene with the deep focus of a wide angle lens?
 10/21/2012 07:18:23 AM · #33
Tried this again properly this weekend. Hope to try it with a portrait soon in the same location


Message edited by author 2012-10-21 11:18:44.
 10/21/2012 08:51:30 AM · #34
Seems to me it's a lot of work for a not to spectacular result.
 10/21/2012 09:02:30 AM · #35
Originally posted by cloudsme:
Seems to me it's a lot of work for a not to spectacular result.


The software does the heavy lifting. I kinda like the effect but not sure how noticeable it is to the general viewing audience.
 10/21/2012 09:19:59 AM · #36
Sorry, been away from this thread since i started due to moving house and being internet less for a while.

A few points to catch up on. It's not really a lot of work. As Joshua says, the software pretty much whizzes it through if you've got a relatively decent computer. Having done a similar effect in photoshop i'm pretty sure that, for me, this way would be quicker than fiddling with blur and layers trying to get the look right. I agree with Jason that people may get 80% there in post but not get it quite right. It's like people saying they can duplicate what Lensbaby does in post. It's extremely hard to get it quite right- just selective blurring doesn't really do it. As to it not being a spectacular result. I think that's like pretty much anything really. If done well-such as in a few of the ones i linked to -i think it can be spectacular and not easily duplicated with an slr or in post. It's just another technique really but i think there could be some interesting things done with it. I'm going to experiment a bit with static/landscape subjects over the next few weeks and see what happens.
 10/24/2012 10:54:49 AM · #37
Originally posted by rooum:
Here's the first two shots for that first image. I started on the couple then worked my way down and shot in a spiral around them for another 30 shots or so.



I then loaded all the RAW images into Lightroom and exported them all as jpegs into a folder. In PS3 i then used the Photomerge and imported them all in. I followed this method which seemed to give good results. Like i say, it's my first attempt so i'll experiment a lot more.


You're too far away. I'd recommend a distance that requires 3 to 4 shots to get just the couple. Your shooting distance is limiting the bokeh.
 10/24/2012 11:08:47 AM · #38
Originally posted by kgeary:
Originally posted by rooum:
Here's the first two shots for that first image. I started on the couple then worked my way down and shot in a spiral around them for another 30 shots or so.



I then loaded all the RAW images into Lightroom and exported them all as jpegs into a folder. In PS3 i then used the Photomerge and imported them all in. I followed this method which seemed to give good results. Like i say, it's my first attempt so i'll experiment a lot more.


You're too far away. I'd recommend a distance that requires 3 to 4 shots to get just the couple. Your shooting distance is limiting the bokeh.


I'm going to be the moderate here.

I think you are too far, but kgeary's suggestion is too close, as people shift around too damned much.

I personally would go for a portrait orientation, and fill the frame with the people, then work out from there. That should give you the best possible results, as it will be a single capture for the people, but with the most minimal DOF possible without 'splitting' on the most important and difficult bit of the image.
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