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10/31/2010 02:25:42 PM · #1 |
Anyone have any suggestions?
I'll be getting and off boats a lot.
Thanks :) |
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10/31/2010 02:30:59 PM · #2 |
get a dry bag and throw some individual lowepro cases or a modular foam grid in it.
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10/31/2010 02:39:55 PM · #3 |
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10/31/2010 04:32:53 PM · #4 |
| I plan no taking two SLR bodies and at least 2 lenses |
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10/31/2010 06:37:34 PM · #5 |
then i think your best option would to buy a larger drybag (15-20L) and put some modular camera holding components (separate lens cases or the kind that all velcro together into one large multipocket thing) in it. if you want water resistant, there are many camera bags that have rain covers and you can scotchguard them to make them pretty resistant against rain, but if youre going on a boat it does sound like you want water PROOF (i.e. submersible).
seatosummit makes some nice ones
-Max
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11/01/2010 12:26:31 AM · #6 |
Lowepro makes some dedicated waterproof camera specific bags. They're not cheap.
Also, this photo.net rundown might help you out a bit.
FWIW, I use sea to summit eVAC sacks for various things. They're more relevant for what you want since you don't really "compress" camera equipment so the straps aren't worth a lot for you and just add weight/complexity, plus they're a bit cheaper. One thing though, is if you DO put something that needs to be compressed in one (like a sleeping bag) it will expand a bit once you compress it because it isn't strapped down. Sea to Summit suggests packing it at the bottom of your pack, but in practice, I found this unnecessary unless you really want zero "regrowth," since the amount it grows is negligible if you roll the lid down well. I did this for my camera gear in New Zealand when I was boarding a small water taxi in vicious waves and also kept my sleeping bags in the same things. One tip with putting camera gear in them though- put your camera stuff in, then flatten/contour the bag from the bottom up (like you would with a ziploc baggie) before you start rolling the top down, otherwise it's sorta annoying to get all the air our since its such a weird shape.
ETA: I did what  michaelmonn suggested with Lowepro modular lens cases and then inserted those with the camera body unprotected into the drysack. Then that was inside my normal backpack for taxi boardings/wading through tidal areas.
Message edited by author 2010-11-01 04:31:06. |
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11/01/2010 04:18:23 AM · #7 |
We have a Lowepro Dryzone, and a dry sack. The dry sack wins hands down on useability - the Dryzones are sods to get into, as the waterproof zip is (quite reasonably) very tight and stiff. That said, if I had to pick one to have all my gear in when it actually went into the ocean, I'd have more confidence in the Dryzone staying dry (and floating!) until I managed to get to it.
All that said, consider how much you actually need it. Last time we were getting on and off I switched back to using my standard Lowepro because all that waterproofing is a damn pain, and I stopped being convinced that I'd fall into the South Atlantic with all my gear :) Even the standard bags can take a hell of a lot of soaking without the inner compartment getting significantly soggy... |
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11/01/2010 11:42:27 AM · #8 |
Originally posted by ganders:
All that said, consider how much you actually need it. |
I agree but if i had a 1DIV i would carry it in a dry bag just for walking down the street haha ;) |
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11/01/2010 11:49:14 AM · #9 |
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06/12/2011 04:47:19 AM · #10 |
The waterproof digital camera is a point-and-shoot camera designed for underwater use. It was improved waterproof ability by adding o-rings and gaskets to keep water out. The most recent technology of this camera type can resist to water up to a depth of 33 feet (10 metres) .
Waterproof cameras are also called weatherproof camera because of their ability to be used in all weather conditions either raining or snowing. It can also be used at a temperature as low as 14 degrees fahrenheit (-10 degrees celsius).
Thanks,
Message edited by author 2011-06-12 08:48:50.
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06/16/2011 10:35:09 AM · #11 |
Few things will protect your gear better than a Pelican case. They even float. They can be had with velcro dividers or foam. Some even have wheels. The larger ones with lots of gear can get heavy quick - but a small Pelican case for 2 bodies with a lens each would be quite manageable.
Pelican cases
Message edited by author 2011-06-16 14:37:16. |
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