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09/21/2010 07:58:57 PM · #51 |
No flashlight on this one... I tried to light up the foreground with the flash on my cell phone while wearing sandles and stopping to remove the cacti from my toes...
The blurry spot is the milky way... |
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09/22/2010 02:02:51 AM · #52 |
Originally posted by louinsd:
1. It's dark outside... carry a good flashlight. Yeah I'm smart, but not always that bright |
Now you mention it, a red flashlight is much better when doing astronomy. You can buy red torches, or cover an existing one with red cellophane. Red allows your eyes to re-adjust to the dark much more quickly every time you use the flashlight. |
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09/27/2010 04:51:18 PM · #53 |
Sorry guys! I am having financial problems to resolve. To me, financial issue is more important than photography, that's why I didn't jump in last week.
Basically, your discussion covers much more than I knew, I learned good ideas here, thanks.
Looks like the most concerned problem is noise. My 7D is the Canon brand, not a magical special one. I assume the noise level should be the same as yours if using the same ISO setting. I used only Photoshop CS3 without 3rd party plugins to reduce the noise, with the help of layer masks though. |
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11/08/2010 07:08:04 AM · #54 |
another silly observation to add to this thread...
If you use a hand held flash to light up the foreground, close your eyes when you use it. I went out last weekend to the desert and tried another star trail pic... I used a hand held flash, killed my night vision, and walked into a knee high cactus. I had about 30 quils stuck in my shin. That hurt.
I'm about the only person that could turn photography into a a hobby that you get injured at. |
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11/08/2010 07:40:45 AM · #55 |
Originally posted by Strikeslip:
That was my 10-20, and probably at 10mm on my 40D crop sensor. Call me weird, but I like the distortion when I shoot at 10mm, especially tall buildings. :-) |
looks like the house is being sucked into a black hole.
Message edited by author 2010-11-08 12:41:06. |
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01/03/2013 01:46:49 PM · #56 |
hi all.
I am new in astrophotography, tried a couple of times startrails. I have a Canon 60D with 18-135 kit lens. My problem is that I sho]ot about 200 images on a tripod and then about 70% of them make one group and the rest 30% another. I mean most of the pictures show the same but the rest show an image slightly moves, say half degree down. Show then I have to separate them, stack the first group, then the other group and then stack the two produced photos. It's so confusing, can't find out what is going on. If there was a tripod shake then I could see it in a single image also. But I don't. It's like I change randomly every 5 or 7 or 6 shots the position slightly but strictly between two positions and not while capturing. My only rational explanation is that randomly the camera selects different portions of the CCD for the photos. Such as dumping a small strip of pixels from the upside and then from the bottom. I mean, if shake and wind were the problem I could see a curved line but I don't. Thanks in advance.
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01/03/2013 02:43:00 PM · #57 |
Originally posted by ksiopis:
hi all.
I am new in astrophotography, tried a couple of times startrails. I have a Canon 60D with 18-135 kit lens. My problem is that I sho]ot about 200 images on a tripod and then about 70% of them make one group and the rest 30% another. I mean most of the pictures show the same but the rest show an image slightly moves, say half degree down. Show then I have to separate them, stack the first group, then the other group and then stack the two produced photos. It's so confusing, can't find out what is going on. If there was a tripod shake then I could see it in a single image also. But I don't. It's like I change randomly every 5 or 7 or 6 shots the position slightly but strictly between two positions and not while capturing. My only rational explanation is that randomly the camera selects different portions of the CCD for the photos. Such as dumping a small strip of pixels from the upside and then from the bottom. I mean, if shake and wind were the problem I could see a curved line but I don't. Thanks in advance. |
The first 70% is different from the other 30%? |
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01/03/2013 03:00:52 PM · #58 |
Originally posted by Alexkc:
Originally posted by ksiopis:
hi all.
I am new in astrophotography, tried a couple of times startrails. I have a Canon 60D with 18-135 kit lens. My problem is that I sho]ot about 200 images on a tripod and then about 70% of them make one group and the rest 30% another. I mean most of the pictures show the same but the rest show an image slightly moves, say half degree down. Show then I have to separate them, stack the first group, then the other group and then stack the two produced photos. It's so confusing, can't find out what is going on. If there was a tripod shake then I could see it in a single image also. But I don't. It's like I change randomly every 5 or 7 or 6 shots the position slightly but strictly between two positions and not while capturing. My only rational explanation is that randomly the camera selects different portions of the CCD for the photos. Such as dumping a small strip of pixels from the upside and then from the bottom. I mean, if shake and wind were the problem I could see a curved line but I don't. Thanks in advance. |
The first 70% is different from the other 30%? |
They've done studies, you know. 60% of the time, it works every time. |
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01/03/2013 04:14:45 PM · #59 |
Originally posted by ksiopis:
hi all.
I am new in astrophotography, tried a couple of times startrails. I have a Canon 60D with 18-135 kit lens. My problem is that I sho]ot about 200 images on a tripod and then about 70% of them make one group and the rest 30% another. I mean most of the pictures show the same but the rest show an image slightly moves, say half degree down. Show then I have to separate them, stack the first group, then the other group and then stack the two produced photos. It's so confusing, can't find out what is going on. If there was a tripod shake then I could see it in a single image also. But I don't. It's like I change randomly every 5 or 7 or 6 shots the position slightly but strictly between two positions and not while capturing. My only rational explanation is that randomly the camera selects different portions of the CCD for the photos. Such as dumping a small strip of pixels from the upside and then from the bottom. I mean, if shake and wind were the problem I could see a curved line but I don't. Thanks in advance. |
Did you use a remote release of some sort/intervalometer? |
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01/04/2013 12:01:50 AM · #60 |
Tommy_Mac thanks for the reply. No, it's not the first 70%. I can't post a photo because I a get a message (new user, spam etc). Let's say that if I stack all the image together the trail is something like that:
----___--------_____--__---____-------______--------------_____-----__---___-------____----------____--________---__
It's clearly 2 groups. The bottom have exactly the same view and so do the other. Like if the camera is allowed to shot only in two specific positions: the standard and then 1 degree down. Never something else.
It seems to be totally random, no regularity. Also, the 70 percent is random, could be 50-50.
spiritualspatula, I used a remote release, 30 sec exposure , about 1 sec interval.
Thank you for the reply.
I cannot explain it. It's soooo weird. I mean, if it is a shake then it is impossible to occur every time in the 1 second delay between 2 shots. It would cause a shake in a single image.
I would appreciate finding a way to upload the two photos. |
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01/04/2013 12:16:42 AM · #61 |
Are you using mirror lookup?
I'd suggest a heavy/sturdier tripod I use a very big manfrotto holding my 5dmkii battery grip and a hung of L lens its rock steady if I use my carbon fibre smaller manfrotto and it's windy I get camera shake.
If not most decent tripods will allow you to spread the legs and remove the centre raisable section to get it flat on the floor To be even steadier
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01/04/2013 12:27:21 AM · #62 |
| Do you have image stabilisation switched on? as it's possible that will leave your system set in one of two positions. |
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01/04/2013 12:50:32 AM · #63 |
| well, I put the camera on the floor, very steadily and shot about 20 shots, 1/4 sec exposure. I get the same! some shots, randomly, show slightly moved. Like the one group cropping the first 20 pixels from the bottom and the other group from the top. I can only suppose that this happens: The camera produces 5184X3456 images. Let's say that the sensor has 3476 real pixels vertically. So in some photos the camera dumps the first 20 pixels from the top and in the other group it dumps the first 20 from the bottom. I don't know if this makes sense. I thought of that because I have read that sensor have more pixels than the image they produce even thought I don't really know if this can cause that. |
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01/04/2013 12:56:00 AM · #64 |
Far more likely what payne said about you've got image stabilisation on you lens while on a tripod
Cameras dont reject pixels. What you using to transfer and view the photos are you shooting raw? |
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01/04/2013 01:08:59 AM · #65 |
paynekj thank you so much!!!!!!!!!!
this was the problem. I had IS on. I read that on a tripod should be turned off but I forgot it. I am a noob:). You saved my time, wish I could reciprocate. I feel so stupid, anyway. Thank all of you so much for your time and your replies and forgive me. Really thanks! |
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01/04/2013 01:14:56 AM · #66 |
| Giles thank you. It so kind you all help unselfishly. You are great, thanks. |
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01/04/2013 01:40:57 AM · #67 |
| When taking startrails you should use manual focus, otherwise you can have not only the problem you already experienced but also areas with different focus (in this case some parts of the trail could be blurred) |
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01/04/2013 02:51:23 AM · #68 |
Alex I used manual focus and also avoided using Auto WB. These were in my mind, I read a guide about a month ago. I only forgot turning IS off or maybe underestimated its impact. I think that now everything is ok. Now my only concern is that I have to wait for the spring in order to take startrail photos outdoors, pretty cold now and my balcony is the only choice. Really thank you.
Last question: Do you guys use/have used these intervalometers that I see on ebay? Not the genuine, Canon, because it's price is about 150 euros. I found some of these for about $12, these with the lcd screen and settings for delay, interval, number of shots etc. For the moment I made a remote myself. Just connected the jack and I connect the two cables with my hand to release the shutter. |
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01/04/2013 03:18:42 AM · #69 |
i use the cheap one off amazon £25 works fine or shoot tethered and you can use your laptop as a timer if you have power of your balcony but you are going to suffer from light pollution unless you live in teh countryside side
best to get away from as much light as possible |
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01/04/2013 11:48:39 AM · #70 |
| I've not used the knock off ones, but I have used a wired remote that doesn't have an intervalometer on my camera and it's not been too tedious. It does mean you can't just leave your camera, but they're more reasonably priced. The intervalometers, if they work, are admittedly super nice to use. I have heard of some folks trying some of the third party ones and being generally happy, but I couldn't say which ones. Build quality is usually a bit lower, but a lot of these remotes are (on brand or not) are made kinda cheaply for what they cost anyway, if you ask me. |
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